19,340 feet above Africa

Some people rely on months of training to make it to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Some people rely on fierce determination. I had neither...but I somehow made it!

Here are some excerpts from my journal to give you an idea of what it was like.

Day One
I think I pulled a muscle in my thigh. I have a blister on my heel...and I have a hangnail. Why did I sign up for this trip?? I am so out of shape. I was the last person to get to camp...the seven mile hike was really hard for me...especially the last stretch. The altitude gain was 4000 feet and now we're at 9950 feet (only about 10,000 more to go!).

I am blown away by how many porters are on the mountain (10 just for our group of four climbers) and how much they carry on their backs and heads. We have one porter for our toilet tent. His name is KCMC and he carries the portable toilet and its tent all over this mountain. Others carry our bags, tents, food and some trek miles each day to fetch us water. They are amazing.

The forest we hiked through today was so beautiful...very enchanted with lots of ferns, vines and lichens. We saw black & white colobus monkeys in the treetops and turacos close by. Tomorrow's hike is much shorter, but incredibly steep. Rest and recovery. :)

I wish I brought nailclippers.

Porters lining up at Machame Gate 
to get their bags weighed.

Day Two    I spent most of the night worrying about having to leave early or be evacuated. The "what ifs" invaded my brain. I was feeling incredibly discouraged last night and worried that leaving might be my only option. If I had so much trouble on the first day, how am I possibly going to make it through this trip? But when I got out of my sleeping bag this morning, my leg felt a little better so I decided to trek on...This time Dean joined me in "Team Pole Pole" (the slow group). Today's hike was even more beautiful than yesterday's. We climbed through a cloud layer and the view was amazing. We were surrounded by the coolest looking plants and trees and flowers...it felt like we were in a Dr. Seuss storybook setting.  Made it to Shira Cave Camp by about 2:30. Not bad!

Day 2 hike...looking down over first camp

Great way to start the day!
 Jeff brought us coffee & tea every morning!

Brenda, Robby, Natcho & Dean in our dining room

Brenda has nailclippers!

Day Three
I made it through another day! The first part of the day was a gradual ascent to 14,900 feet, where we stopped for lunch and caught the beginning of some snowdrops. Despite the cold weather, some porters wore very little...like cotton Tshirts, shorts, and even flip flops! I learned that our porters get paid about $5 a day. This is good money for them, which is why they are here, but it's a very dangerous and difficult job. It's not uncommon for porters to die while on the mountain (usually from altitude sickness) and their job takes a very demanding toll on their bodies. I am constantly in awe of them.

We got moving soon after lunch and headed through what reminded me of the Anza-Borrego in the springtime. Beautiful plants that looked like they belonged in the desert. This is also where I had my first close-up view of the summit glaciers. We got down to Barranco Camp (hike high, sleep low) by about 3:30, just after it started to rain. I changed clothes, snuggled into my sleeping bag and waited for afternoon tea.

I'm adapting very well to high altitude...my oxygen saturation reading tonight was 92 while everyone else was in the 80's (not that this is a competition). Great view of Moshi's lights from our camp. So glad I'm here and not there. :)

Day Four
Stepped outside during the middle of the night and was awestruck by the beautiful view. The clouds had cleared to reveal the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, highlighted by the almost full moon. The stars were shining brightly and the constellation Orion was above me.

I heard the Barranco Wall would be one of the most difficult parts of the trip because it's so steep and you need to use your hands to climb it...but I loved it! It wasn't nearly as hard as I expected and the view along the way was spectacular. We made it to Karanga Camp in time for lunch...then Scrabble with the British neighbors...and then a great nap.

On top of the Barranco Wall. Being a mountaineer!

Dinner tonight: White rice with ginger beef; potato soup with cilantro and random spices; fritters; veggie sauce. Then we celebrated Natcho's birthday with song, chocolate, and Coca-Cola.

My body is getting tired and my muscles are sore (first time I've used them in awhile!). Tomorrow we hike up to Barafu Camp and then start our ascent to the summit around midnight so we arrive at sunrise. Sounds exhausting!

Day Five
Barafu Camp is really cold and disorganized...and reminds me more of a refugee camp than a high point for mountain climbers. It's snowing and I'm worried it won't stop in time for our ascent. The plan is to head out at 1:00am, reach Stella Point at about 6am, and then hike the 45 minutes to the peak (photo op with sign). It's a full moon tonight, but that means nothing if it's cloudy and snowing. Also, the whole point of getting to the top (for me) is to see sunrise from the top of Africa...but that won't happen if this weather continues. I'm being really negative, I know. I'm grouchy, I know. I need to try to catch a few hours of sleep before we head out.

Day Six
Today was possibly the hardest day of my life. After very little sleep, some tea and snacks, we left camp at 1:00am to start our ascent. I was in a horrible mood and I apologize to anyone on the trail with me because I know I was emitting negative energy. Sorry! I didn't want to go...It was still misting...and it was cold and dark...and I just wanted to stay in my warm sleeping bag. I thought about that sleeping bag the whole way up! There were a few times I wanted to go back to camp, but it just wasn't an option. I wasn't feeling well throughout most of the ascent and wanted to take little breaks, which occassionally turned into "I want to give up" breaks. I didn't have the motivation that so many others on that trail had...and I was cranky. I threw up during one of my breaks (just as my new British friends were passing by), but then felt well enough to continue...slowly. Very slowy. Each step felt like I was moving a ton of bricks and it is a miracle that I made it to the top.

Full moon over crater rim

Stella Point was breathtaking (literally). It had an amazing view from all sides...full moon on one side, rising sun on the other, sunken crater, cloud line...it was incredible. I stayed there long enough to welcome Dean (and Andrew), which was one of the greatest moments of the trip. We met up with the others on our way to Uhuru Peak, had tea and a snack while gazing at glaciers, and then continued on to our photoshoot at the summit's sign (which is apparently a must).

Dean's final steps to Stella Point!

With my "guide" at Stella Point...
Natcho was very patient with me!

All sunrises are spectacular...this one was a miracle.

Tea time at the top of Africa

The way down was anti-climatic and slippery and long...but we got back just in time to rest before having to descent again. After a quick nap in the refugee camp, we continued down to Millenium Camp, where we had a great view of the summit and stared at it in amazement. It already seems like so long ago that I was there!

Start of the long descent down.

My legs are killing me and my knee hurts and I'm worried about tomorrow's descent.

Day Seven
For the average Mt. Kili climber, it takes about four hours to go down the 12 miles on the Mweka Trail. I am not average. It took me much longer...and then some. I felt physically disabled. I used my hiking poles as canes and could barely bend my left knee. Both of my big toes were swollen and sore. Every step down was incredibly painful (even though I took one of Robbie's magic pain relievers). The rest of the group was ahead and I knew they were waiting for me. I was so frustrated wth my body! I finally made it down to the dirt road, with Natcho as my companion, and had about one more mile to go when I heard the car. Nechi came to rescue me! My original worry of being evacuated actually came true...but it happened when I was off the trail and had only a mile left to go. I LOVED not having to walk that last mile and was so relieved to be "rescued."

Using my canes to hobble down the mountain

The vehicle that rescued me from my last mile!

Final Thoughts:
I have no desire to climb another major summit.
Porters are supermen.
Our planet is magical.
Sometimes I complain too much.

Whatever is Excellent

My baby for about 30 minutes

Whatever is Excellent bus


Off to the Swahili Coast...



All the buses here seem to have a random message displayed on their front windshield. My bus from Moshi to Tanga said "Whatever is Excellent," which I thought was really strange...but then it kept popping into my head during my time along the Swahili Coast. I kept thinking, "Yes! Whatever IS Excellent!" Regardless of what happens, it can be excellent depending on how I see it.  All sense of personal space was lost during that five hour bus ride...and I even had a baby placed on my lap (without my permission) for the last leg down south to Peponi Beach. But it was cheap and efficient and made for great people watching!

The Tanzanian coastline is breathtaking. There are monkeys in palm trees along the beach...the ocean is warm...there is a great breeze in the air at all times. It's pretty much heaven on Earth. But this didn't keep me from having my first African day of irrational crankiness...I woke up on the wrong side of the tent after a terrible night's sleep and remembering that my clean clothes were left outside during a midnight downpour. It was just one of those days, despite being in the most perfect paradise imaginable. But then I remembered that whatever is excellent...and I snapped out of it. :)

"Pepi" the dhow, took us to a little sand island for snorkelling.
It was gorgeous!!!

We camped for a few nights at Peponi Beach Resort, which has amazing food and super cold beer. Campsites are only $4 per person and steps from the Indian Ocean. It's something you'd see in Budget Travel magazine. We took a dhow out to a tiny island and snorkeled in its reef...and I pretended like I was a Sports Illustrated swimsuit model. I couldn't resist the offer of a raft, so I also found myself floating in the Indian Ocean, although I was kind of worried the wind would carry me to Mombassa.





Off to Pemba Island...

Arriving on Pemba Island after five hours in steerage

Lots of fish on the streets of Pemba Island

We then hopped on a ferry (cargo ship, as it turned out) to Pemba Island, known for its clove production, voodoo practices, and endemic "flying foxes." It's one of the most beautiful places I'd never want to visit again. I loved it at first, but my admiration soon turned to impatience. It was too slow for me. And I didn't like having to cover up my entire body in hot & humid weather (Pemba is 95% Muslim and very conservative). I didn't realize I'd have to walk through a village on our way to a beach, so I wasn't covered up properly. My shoulders were exposed and my knees occassionally peeked out under my sarong. I have never received so many dirty looks from other women. It was an uncomfortable feeling to know the way I looked made me unwelcome (or so I perceived).

My new beverage of choice: sugarcane juice!

A handful of the many unsupervised children roaming the roads of Pemba Island.

Example of how children here MAKE their own toys out of TRASH. 
This was a kite. And he loved it.
Orion, are you reading this?? :)

Our overcrowded dala dala ride to north Pemba

The north coast of Pemba is known for its diving and almost all of the island's tourists congregate in this area, rarely leaving their hotels except to dive in the surrounding waters. We headed up there so Natcho could dive, but instead of staying at a fancy resort we camped next door at Verani. Managed by three 16 year old boys who made a delicious dinner of freshly caught fish, Verani is on a beautiful stretch of beach, but has a few problems. No running water or working toilets...and my biggest issue: no hot sauce for my breakfast eggs! And did I mention it's run by three teenage boys????


Mkoani - after our sail back to town from Kwata Island

One of many chicken ferry passengers
on the way to Stonetown.








We spent an extra day on Pemba because our ferry from Mkoani to Unguja (Zanzibar) stood us up. This worked out in our benefit, though...we ended up sailing to a small, remote island and spent the afternoon snorkelling again. 
 

Sunset from dinner at Verani


Men in one line; women & children in the other, but for no understandable reason.
Everyone sat together on the ferry...with the chickens.

Off to Unguja...

I fell in love with Stonetown from the moment we landed. It's mysterious and beautiful and delapidated and full of diversity. We discovered some great places to eat, including the Fordohani Gardens night market, which has countless street vendors who all claim to have the best food (most of which I wouldn't touch, nevermind taste)...meat and fish skewers, Zanzibari pizza filled with random minced bits and mayo, baby shark, octopi, shrimp, lobster, and probably some endangered species. It was gross, but also made for an exciting culinary experience.  Once again, most of this place seemed to be run by teenage boys. Curious.

 

fancy Zanzibari door in Stonetown



Top of House of Wonders, 
overlooking Fordohani Gardens

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Stonetown kids

Off to Jambiani...

Our first lodging in Jambiani, Kimte, took minimalism to a whole new level.
 Bug spray was about the only decoration in the room.



We drove to the southern east coast of the island, which I had heard was the least touristy of all the areas on Unguja (Zanzibar). Jambiani has a vibe of Tulum, a tide like San Felipe and water like the Carribean. We stayed our first night at Kimte, a little place on the beach run by a group of Rasta guys who spend their days relaxing in an irie sort of way instead of fixing up their "resort." It has great food and a bar right on the sand. I was content there, but then we took a walk...and I saw the place next door. Coral Rock Hotel had an infinity pool, fancy rooms, a beautiful restaurant, other guests (!) and free use of their sporting equipment...and the price difference wasn't very much. We moved over for our last night of island living and basked in the sun, swam in the ocean, drank a pina colada by the pool, and went for a sunrise kayak paddle. It was perfect and I want to return ASAP! :)

View from Coral Rock Hotel (with Kimte behind me in the distance)
 

Sunrise at Jambiani Beach

 

This dog followed us out into the ocean.



Jambiani villager as tide was going out

Safari Soap Opera

Being on safari is kind of like watching a soap opera. The same themes exist in both...like love triangles, heartbreak, murder, fierce competition, romance, bad choices, second chances, missed opportunites, family loyalty...you get the idea. I loved watching these stories unfold right before my eyes with my guide as the narrator. There is so much drama in nature!

This is hippo foreplay (I won't subject you to what I saw next!)

pregnant zebra

Heaven's rays over the Serengeti

Hungry Hungry Hippo

I now understand the whole bird watching thing. Birds are so cool!!!

Visiting all the animals that live within the Ngorongoro Crater made me think about how life is really about getting along with others and sharing resources. The animals out there do it so well. The zebras and wildebeest are not in war with each other over the grass. They share it! And if you don't like someone, you just do your best to avoid them...like crocodiles and hippos...or lions and hyenas. It shouldn't be so difficult for people to coexist with one another. If animals can do it, then why can't we?

Serengeti safari with Natcho

Maasai schoolhouse, with 40+ kids inside all under the age of six...sitting quietly. I can't figure this out and part of me thinks it was just for show. "Hurry, kids....the tourists are here....places everybody!"

One of the many well behaved "Kindergarten" students in the Maasai school.
(Check out the toothpick accessory through his ear.)

I'm not sure if reincarnation exists, but if it does....please, please, please don't make me return as a Maasai woman. That is my idea of hell on Earth. I've always romanticized tribal cultures, but after visiting a Maasai village I can now say with 100% assurance that there is nothing romantic about being a Maasai woman. I won't get into the details, but let's just say it's a very male-dominated culture. And...their diet of meat, milk and blood is gross. Really gross.

Maasai men doing their jumping dance

 Leave it to me to end up at an Irish pub in rural Africa!

On our last day of safari, we stayed at a place called "The Octogon Lodge" and it was so beautiful! Plus they had an Irish pub!!!! I couldn't have been happier.

Natcho and I are now off to the coast of Tanzania to explore the beaches, snorkel and practice our Swahili. I return to Moshi on Oct. 10th to start volunteering again at Give a Heart to Africa. I'm feeling very, very lucky.