Back in the U.S.A.!!!! (for a week)

My last San Miguel sunrise...This was the view from my bed each morning. 

Now that my time in Mexico is over, my dad said I needed to write another blog entry...a sort of closure I guess, so here goes...


San Miguel de Allende is a very unique place. I went from loving it to hating it to loving it even more. It makes a great first impression...but then you start to question why it seems so wonderful. It can be crowded, hot, expensive, touristy and just a little too magical. I didn't expect to find so many fancy restaurants, boutique hotels and rich white people in the middle of Mexico. But that's my fault. I had expectations. Maybe I hadn't chosen the best place to learn Spanish since so many people in San Miguel speak English, but I had certainly landed in a beautiful town overflowing with historical and religious importance. I really loved my time there...and it made me appreciate Mexico in a new light. 


In my opinion, most of us live our lives in the U.S. without thinking much about our bordering country to the south...even here in San Diego, a 30 minute drive from the border, we often seem to forget Mexico plays an enormous role in our lives. The news does a great job reminding us that Mexico is there, but only with violent stories that fill us with fear.  I found the opposite to be true in Mexico. America was always at the forefront of news stories, advertisements and even conversations.  America played a large role in everyone's lives...and they knew it. Our economy has a huge impact on the jobs (or lack thereof) in Mexico. And everyone I met had a story about a loved one who had been swallowed-up by the USA. I understand better than ever why so many Mexicans choose to leave their families, friends, homes and culture to take a chance on life up here. It's fascinating, really, because the quality of life in many ways is so much better in their country...but the illusion of the American Dream is too strong of a force. And I get it. There are so many more opportunities to make money in our country than in Mexico. Even the 'bottom of the totem pole' jobs make loads more than the potential daily wage there. Years after a man settles into a new life in the USA, after the "coyote" fee is paid off and enough money has been sent home, if he returns to his family...Things are different. Often times, wives have moved on. Children have grown up. And his culture is no longer as familiar as it once was. (I know this is a generalization...just go along with it.)


I will perceive news stories about illegal immigrants from Mexico in a different way now. When I hear about migrants found dead in the desert, packed into a van like sardines, or being hurt in altercations with border agents or testosterone filled vigilantes, I'll wonder about the desperation behind the event. Each person has a story, a family and a dream. Not a dream to strike it rich...but to make just enough money to send home so relatives can live a better life.


The best part of learning Spanish is being able to talk to people who previously would have been outside my communication zone. It's such a great feeling. Even though I'm only a beginner with the Spanish language, I feel as though I learned more during my time in Mexico than in all my previous semesters of Spanish combined. Cognates are my favorite things in the world! And they will hopefully help me pick up the Italian language during my next (& final!) adventure in this crazy year of me. 


I learned an important lesson on my last day in Mexico: Triple check your travel itinerary. I got up at 3:30am to catch my shuttle to the airport, which was supposed to pick me up between 3:45-4:00am. At 4:30am it still hadn't arrived and I was starting to really worry because I didn't have a plan B. Marta, my teacher, and her husband, Leandro, were up in the middle of the night waiting with me (because they are the nicest people in North America). She called a driver who got out of bed and arrived by 4:45am to pick me up. My flight was at 6:50am and the airport was well over an hour away. He dropped me off at 6am and 20 minutes later I finally made it to the check-in counter, where the ticket agent looked at me like I was crazy. Turns out, I wasn't late at all...I was a whole day early! Luckily there were a few extra seats on the plane and I was able to make it back to San Diego in time for lunch at Souplantation. 


It's about time to decide what I'll do post-Italy, but I just can't bring myself to make a concrete decision (commitment issues, some might say). Once my yearlong sabbatical is over, I still have a contract teaching in the Juvenile Court & Community Schools here in San Diego. I'd be crazy not to return because it's an amazing school district and teaching jobs are practically impossible to come by in this current economy. I can't help but wonder, though, what other options are out there. Life is full of surprises.

Me, Yo, Mi

Well, believe it or not, this whole “me, me, me” thing is actually starting to get a little old. As mentioned before, I’ve been napping, cooking, hooping, taking pictures and practicing my Spanish (which is getting better with each week!!)…but I definitely could not live like this forever. I don’t feel like I’m contributing anything to the world (except I do flash my big, gummy smile to almost everyone I pass on the street, especially to Señor Negativo, which is surely spreading happiness!). My final two weeks in this beautiful part of Mexico will be dedicated only to Spanish, which means now (ahorrita) is the best time to fill you in on my top ten San Miguel de Allende highlights (in no particular order):

1) Huitlacoche - AKA corn smut, this fungus is an amazingly delicate and delicious seasonal food native to this area of Mexico. I'm sure it can be found in the USA too, but it's different here...and I would return just to be reunited with it. Tacos Don Felix serves huitlacoche in a variety of ways and also has the three best waiters in all of San Miguel: Emilio is ten and adorable, Lalo is 20-something and as guapo as physically possible, and Felix, the owner, has a heart that radiates kindness. Between the servers and the food, this might just be my favorite restaurant in the world. 

Emilio explaining the dessert choices

Huitlacoche quesadillas

I'm going to miss La Reina de Jugo when I leave!

2) Jugo - I've also discovered a new love for fresh squeezed juice. My appreciation for juice might be directly tied to the woman down the street who sells it. I love her. She is older, extremely sedentary, constantly in good spirits, has a contagious laugh, and almost always holding a fly swatter. I felt a little weird taking her picture (even though I've become one of her best customers), but I captured her in this photo of the juice & honey.

La Parrocchia on the Friday of Sorrows

3) Semana Santa - Possibly the most exciting part of my stay here was experiencing the week(s) leading up to Easter. It put Catholicism into a whole new light for me. From what I understand, San Miguel de Allende celebrates this time of the year like no other place on Earth. The events were beautiful and strange and magical...and included a 12 mile midnight pilgrimage to carry a miraculous statue from one church to another (a tradition that started in 1812), a reenactment of Jesus's last hours (including a real crown of thorns and blood), temporary and unbelievable murals of flower petals covering the streets, altars galore dedicated to the Virgin Mary (most of which were inside people's homes!), fireworks, fantastically shaped palm fronds, food symbolizing the tears of Our Lady of Sorrows, real tears, colorful decorations everywhere, and exploding paper-maché dolls that represent Judas. Easter will never be the same.  

Jesus, made of flower petals in the middle of the night...It was trampled soon after I took this photo.

Palm Sunday in the Parrocchia

Perhaps the most kid-friendly altar during a day dedicated to the Virgin of Sorrows

Getting ready to blow up evil effigies symbolizing Judas on Easter
(mostly witches, devils and political figures)

Overlooking Guanajuato

4) Guanajuato - An old mining town about two hours away, it is also the birthplace of Diego Rivera and now known mostly for its large university population. I loved it. But I love San Miguel de Allende more. 


5) Atotonilco - My first visit here was lovely, but during my second visit I realized the deep religious and cultural importance of this church. Aside from its beauty, it has a really interesting history and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I won't get into the details (mostly because I can't remember them right now)...but click on the link if you're interested. It's a special place, regardless of religion. 

6) Marta & Leandro - Perhaps the nicest people I've ever met. Marta is a teacher at my school, which is owned by her sister, and she & her husband Leandro live in the apartment across from my mansion. My life is better for having met them. Not only is she a wonderful teacher, but she is also a kind, funny, wise, and very artistic woman. And Leandro is a perfect match for her. 

This is an AWFUL picture of us
having sheep for breakfast.
That's right, I said 'sheep for breakfast'.

7) Shopping - But not any shopping...I LOVE all the handmade items here, from jewelry to embroidered clothes, to purses made of candy wrappers, to pottery, to pewter everything, to baskets, to dolls, to tapestries. They are all amazing and beautiful and half the price than at home. 

Cucurrucucu Paloma

8) Mariachi Music - I have a new love and appreciation for mariachi performers. They no longer make me uncomfortable while I'm eating. I welcome their presence, enjoy their company, am moved by their music, and am in awe of their talent. 


9) Plaza de Toros - This is only being added because it was a once in a lifetime sort of event...and something I NEVER thought I'd see because it goes against all my morals. That said, I went. Just like I ate sheep. I'm different when I travel. The "bullfight" was interesting in an anthropological sort of way, but it was also unsurprisingly disturbing and sad. I wasn't just sad for the bull, though...I was bothered by the many men who partake in this sort of work for a living - many of whom are risking their lives for the sake of entertainment. The horses are also terrified to be in that ring and chased by a bull. There is definitely an ancient, Roman feeling to it all...No me gusta. But I'm glad I went.

And the people cheered......and the bull died...and Mr. Pink did the walk of pride. Bravo. 

I don't get it. 

10) Visitors!!!!! Not one, but FIVE, of my favorite people came to visit ME!

Rachelle!!!

Natcho!!!

My mom, Chuck & Mary Lou
(my mom's best friend since childhood)
They love to line up in order of height.

In two weeks I will be back "home"... Only for one week, though, and then it's off to the next (& final) adventure of this wacky "Year of Me".