Rwanda on My Mind

Rwanda has always held a special place in my heart because of its 1994 genocide, but now it is also a part of my soul. I love it here. This is a period of growth and optimism for the people of Rwanda...and although there is severe poverty, there also seems to be great opportunities developing for many people here. It's difficult to believe that the hurt and anger caused by the loss of so many loved ones isn't still hovering over the country, though. The vast majority of people "appear" to have moved on. They seem to have great faith in their current government and try to focus on the future of Rwanda instead of dwelling on its past. It's kind of mind boggling, but I guess it's the only way to move forward. Anything else would be disastrous.

I feel like I'm in the middle of one of history's greatest examples of human resiliency. But there is an overwhelming sense of paradox here... between rich and poor, urban and rural, the past and the future, nightmares and dreams, and between reverence and forgiveness. It is impossible to forget what happened here 16 years ago...but the current government's forceful message of inclusion and unity seems to be working. However, I think that under the surface, people are scarred beyond our imagination. The trauma caused by seeing those you love tortured, raped and slaughtered doesn't go away. Many people here, mostly women and children, were themselves tortured, mutilated and raped (and purposely infected with HIV)...so there are survivors of a different kind too. How can you live next to someone who has betrayed you in the worst ways possible? Although there are some mediation and counseling services, there isn't nearly enough help for all the survivors in this country. There is a feeling of sadness in the air, but people here are are also very friendly, welcoming and optimistic.

During the beginning of the genocide, many Tutsis and moderate Hutus thought they could find protection inside churches, but that was not the case. Having groups of people congregate in one place, even a church, just made it easier for the Hutu Power regime to kill more people at once. Also, many priests betrayed those in hiding by becoming informants to the rebels. I documented my visit to the memorial site in Ntarama, 30km south of Kigali, because I want to teach my future students about the Rwandan genocide. Some of the pictures are graphic and I apologize if they bother you...but I think they're important to share. The entire world turned a blind eye in 1994 and I don't think we should have the privilege to turn our eyes away now. Over 2000 people, including many children and women, were massacred on the grounds of this Catholic church during the second week of the genocide. The stain on the wall in what was the Sunday school room is the blood of children who were violently thrown against it. The clothes hanging from the beams belong to the victims. There are many personal items displayed, such as watches and jewelry. Everywhere you turn, there are constant reminders of the horror which took place here.

What was the Sunday school room

Grenades were used to reach those hiding in the church.

 

Kigali Genocide Memorial Center

The Kigali Genocide Memorial Center was just as powerful as Yad Vasheml in Israel, but I think I may have been more affected by this memorial because the genocide happened within my lifetime and because I was very young when I went to Israel. It does a wonderful job of explaining the events that led up to the genocide, how the world ignored those signs, how the Belgian government is largely to blame, and also details the brutality people inflicted on one another. It has an exhibit on other genocidal massacres that have occurred in recent history, in which there seems to be many parallels, such as the use of propaganda, the foreshadowing that was ignored, the "group think" mentality, and how people around the world are affected by what they hear (or do not hear) through media. It's incredibly frightening.

The youngest children who were orphaned by the genocide are now becoming adults and there is a greater need than ever to support and help this group of people to become successful Rwandan citizens. The Akilah Institute for Women is a great example of a new program aimed at helping this population. My tour of their school was inspiring. Young women who were orphaned and often left completely alone in this world are provided a free higher education in English, leadership and hospitality. It's just in its first year and has plans of expanding to serve 800 young women, including room and board. Since education is a top priority for the Rwandan government, it is providing the school with its new location, but Akilah will need to find funding for many more students than it has currently. They are doing wonderful work and I hope the school's growth is successful.

Many of the country's teachers were victims of the genocide and due to this tremendous loss, the country doesn't have a sufficient number of quality teachers. Part of me is thinking about coming back next year to join a teacher training program (Don't worry yet, mom, this is probably just one of my passing ideas). I met an American teacher at a coffee shop before I went up to see the gorillas and she invited me to come tour her school. It is supposedly the school where President Kagame sends his children! It's a very westernized, private, expensive school and nothing like the public schools in Rwanda (which I've yet to experience!), but it kind of reminded me of Monarch.

Silent Reading time in first grade classroom

I made one last stop before I flew out of Kigali at the Rwandan Orphans Project, an orphanage and school that I learned about through my mom. It's located just outside of the city in a nice area, but the center itself is very minimal (to put it nicely). There are about 90 boys, ages 6-18, who live and go to school on the premises. These are children and teens who have been living on the streets, so there's no doubt there are many challenges. It's very crowded. The classrooms are bare and the resources scarce. Most of the students are very behind in school because they haven't attended in some time.  There is very little funding. Teachers who are tasked with teaching English don't know it themselves. I can't even imagine all the other challenges that go along with running this type of program...but I think it has great potential, especially under the leadership of Sean Jones (he's a real dynamo!). I believe in what they are doing and I want to come back to help. We will see!

One of the dorm rooms (two kids per bed)

Lunchtime: ugali & beans

one of five classrooms (they all look the same)

the kitchen (I'm not kidding)

The Rwandan Orphans Project team

I'm very curious to see what the future holds for Rwanda. It appears to be doing very well, but appearances can be deceitful. As much as I believe in President Kagame's strong leadership, it also scares me a little. I hope the U.S. changes its support from pro-Kagame to pro-Rwanda...just in case.

Thunderstorm rolling into Kigali

Musanze, Rwanda - photos



Only about 700 mountain gorillas left in the world.



After munching on bamboo leaves for awhile, this Silverback walked out of the bush and plopped himself down right in front of us!



Dreams really do come true!



100% Cuteness

Professional mountain gorilla trackers (my heroes)



These kids ran up the mountainside from their lakeside village after spotting me from afar...one by one! Out of breath, each one calmly said the same thing: "Hello. My name is _____.
What is your name? Where are you from? Nice to meet you."





These kids ran after our Land Rover and once we stopped to take a picture of the view, they also stopped to talk. Out of breath, each one calmly said the same thing: "Hello. My name is _____. What is your name? Where are you from? Nice to meet you."



I delivered my Monarch students' mini posters about saving the mountain gorillas to the head office. This man is in charge of all gorilla tracking and he was so excited that kids in California know facts about saving the mountain gorillas. The posters will be displayed in a local primary school.



Visit to Amahoro Orphanage.
These kids were so amazing. They sang and danced for us....and played and wanted
their picture taken...and wouldn't stop smiling. :)



My new BFF at the orphanage. She became very possessive of me!




The independent wanderer

"Take my picture, take my picture, take my picture, take my picture."



My guide (and now friend), Gerard, was so good with all the little kids.

:(

My last morning in Northwestern Rwanda was spent tracking the endangered Golden Monkey. Since I was mildly obsessed with nonhuman primates at one point in my life, this was REALLY exciting for me!



Pinch

In the short amount of time I've been here, I've met some really incredible Tanzanian people...like 9 year old Joyce, who has quickly become my best buddy in the after school program and who could make jump roping an Olympic sport...and Kassanda, taxi driver extraordinaire and one of the kindest men I've ever met...and Chombo, a 20-something year old student with an amazing smile and no idea how much he's strengthened my teaching confidence...and Neelham's mom, who gives me Swahili lessons whenever I go to her shack to buy eggs...I could go on and on. I love people!

Internet class - Day one

My roomie showing a student our school's website

A highlight of this week was taking adult students to an internet cafe for a crash course in the World Wide Web. The whole concept of the internet was brand new for most of them...and setting up email accounts was an excruciatingly frustrating experience (due to Africa's slow internet connection)...but it was also incredibly rewarding, especially when I realized how exciting this experience was for them. It was so cool to see the smiles on their faces when they received mail from their friend at the computer next to them. I even set up a couple of students on Facebook! After I explained the "About Me" section of Facebook, one student put his main interest as pastoralism, which I loved.

This picture of Aisha cracks me up!
She stood in front of me, asked to have her picture taken, and then picked her nose!

Another highlight was interviewing potential students for next semester's classes. Almost 200 people showed up at the school in hopes of being chosen for one of the 40 slots. I interviewed about 30 (with the help of my translator) and selected about five to join next semester's group (which starts Oct. 2). The interviews lasted all day and I was inspired and saddened by so many of the people I met. I'll be back to teach for a few weeks in October and really look forward getting to know the new group.

Passing the torch over to Hester. (This is English class, level one)

I just happened to check my email after the interviews yesterday and discovered a message from Rwandair, informing me that my Saturday flight had been changed to Friday evening. This gave me about two hours to pack and get to the airport! Kassanda drove like a bat out of hell into the sunset, dodging shaky cyclists, cattle and dala dalas...but we made it in about half the time it usually takes. I had anxiety the entire way to the airport, not because I feared for my life, but because I hadn't been able to get in touch with Natcho to let him know I wouldn't be showing up for our Friday night date. It felt very strange to fly to another country when those closest to me didn't know my whereabouts.  The Rwandair station manager, Ismail, was so excited to see me (because he thought I'd be a no show) and after I gave him a hard time for the email he had sent me, we laughed and became new BFFs. He took about $100 off my fare and then had his assistant personally walk me to the front of each checkpoint line to ensure I made my flight. Ismail also hooked me up with a Rwandan man about my age whose brother owns half of Kigali, including the hotel where I stayed last night. A man was waiting for me at the airport with my name on a sign and then took me to a nice hotel with great water pressure and the hardest mattress I've ever felt. Kigali is really pretty...VERY clean, especially when compared to Moshi, and surprisingly modern.

The two hour drive from Kigali to Musanze is beyond amazing. It is through beautifully terraced hillsides with every shade of green and tiny villages that look like they haven't changed in centuries. Every single child that saw me pass by shouted "Musungu!!!" and I felt like I was one of only a handful of white people they've ever seen.  My hotel in Musanze is nicer than I expected and I can see two of Virunga's volcanoes from my window. I feel like a fancy tourist. I'll head into Parc National des Volcans super early tomorrow morning to get my permit and then trek into the Virunga Mountains to see the gorillas...Someone pinch me!

Ugali by Candlelight

I went on my first “home visit,” which is a way to assess a student’s level of need: living situations + academic achievement + motivation + business plan = chance of receiving support for start-up business. Odelia is a 25 year old woman who is extremely shy, but has recently come out of her shell in English class. She moved to Moshi a few years ago from her village so she could make money and currently works at a small market, where she probably makes about $40 a month. She works insanely long hours, but still manages to make it to class everyday (and stay awake), even though it is an hour walk to school…and then another hour walk to work. She is a gentle soul and I really hope this opportunity to learn English and business skills helps her to grow and gain the self confidence needed to “make it.” She’s considering secretarial school, but also likes the idea of owning a small business. She lives in a tiny two room place with two other women. All the cooking is done outside in a communal courtyard shared with about ten other residences. She welcomed us with pride into her living room, where she had laid out a beautiful spread of food that she obviously spent a lot of time preparing. (Note: home visits are not mandatory and are only done upon a student’s request.) The food was delicious and we had a really nice time visiting and talking and eating. It was about my 500th reality check since I’ve been here.


Odelia's home visit

By the way, I am now a chapati cooking expert. Margaret taught me in exchange for a guacamole making lesson. Coincidentally, chapati and guacamole make an excellent match…add some beans (which we did) and it feels like home. I’ve decided to create a new type of cuisine called Tanzmex, which I think would be quite popular here.

Margaret & her guacamole

I bought a black doll because
 I was sick of seeing African kids play with
 naked, white Barbies. It was a hit.

As for the title of this entry, it describes my dinner last night. Ugali, a flavorless, thick dough made from cooking a mixture of flour & water, is the staple of most dinners here. We ate by candlelight because the electric company locked our meter box, which means we can't purchase more electricity...and of course, this is happening on a holiday weekend (Eid, the end of Ramadan). I have a headlamp, so I'm fine. :)

Debate day in the advanced English class.

Balloon day! Don't worry, mom, we made sure they knew not 
to put them in their mouths!

I let a 12 year old boy use my camera during 
the after school program and I really
like this shot he took of another boy.

"Aisha, NO!" (my most often used saying in Moshi)

Our "after school program"

Twice a week from 2-4pm, the neighborhood’s little ones come by for some fun with us. We call it an after school program, but it feels more like a childcare facility. Most of the kids are 3-6 years old and arrive in a group, rarely attended by an adult. The kids live close by, mostly in shacks...and this is a real treat for them. My first day with the kids was complete mayhem and afterward I felt like maybe I wasn’t cut out for working with little ones anymore. I sought structure where there was none…and the language barrier was very frustrating. I was worried, but Round Two was so great! I worked mostly with the older students (7-10 years old) and it went so smoothly. There is such a contrast between the behavior challenges I faced in my teaching jobs in the U.S. and the behavior I see here. These children show immense respect toward adults…and they want to learn…and they appreciate everything, regardless of how small. But then there’s Aisha. She drives me crazy…and of course she is becoming one of my favorite people. She is super defiant and needy and manipulative (just how I like them!). I love projects.

This is Aisha. Don't let her cuteness fool you! :)

I know. Ridiculously adorable.

OK, I Arrived in Africa...Now What?

Over Darfur!!!!

About to land in Africa!

Flying over the continent of Africa was surreal, especially at the moment my electronic airplane tracker showed we were above Darfur.


The volunteer house turned out to be more like a compound, enclosed by high walls and a newly installed electric fence. When I arrived, my housemates were all up and ready to greet me with smiles and homemade crepes. I had a wonderful first night's sleep on my mosquito-netted top bunk and then woke up on my first morning in Africa to the sounds of barking dogs and approximately one million roosters. I've been feeling somewhat disoriented since I arrived because so much is new and I'm used to being in control...now I'm on a new schedule with new food and a bizarre shower and a confusing electrical system...everything is unfamiliar. But that's the way it's supposed to be.

Just to give you an idea of what Moshi is like, here are a few of my first observations:

• It is very, very dusty.
• There is trash everywhere. Trashcans are rare and when you do see one, it is usually empty...with loads of trash on the ground just next to it.
• People burn their trash, so there is a constant smell of burning rubbish in the air.
• The produce selection is minimal, but beautiful...and everywhere I turn (and I mean everywhere), I see women selling a selection of carrots, tomatoes, avocados, onions and green peppers. (I've been making wicked egg scrambles in the morning!)
• There are also sewing machines on every sidewalk in town. Everyone sews!
• Pedestrians do NOT have the right of way.
• There is no such thing as personal space when riding a dala dala...They cram as many people as possible into a little minivan and riding in one gives me a giggle attack.
• People dress very conservatively, especially the women, and it's common to see people walking the streets in full Masai gear or Islamic outfits. Most women wear multiple layers of colored fabrics tied around their bodies.
• A view of Mt. Kilimanjaro is just outside my front door!
• I'm pretty sure I could find a husband here. 

I'm volunteering for the next couple weeks in a small, start-up school that offers free English and business classes to local adults. Give a Heart to Africa also helps the most motivated and needy of its students to actually start their own businesses. http://www.giveahearttoafrica.org/ Classes begin at 9am and are held right here on the property inside three small rooms around the perimeter of the courtyard. Most of the students are in their twenties, but some are much older (including a man who is almost blind and without teeth, but arrives on time every morning for school). It's surprisingly super organized and the students are wonderful. I’m one of four volunteers at the moment and am tasked with teaching the English classes. I love it. :)