Rwanda on My Mind

Rwanda has always held a special place in my heart because of its 1994 genocide, but now it is also a part of my soul. I love it here. This is a period of growth and optimism for the people of Rwanda...and although there is severe poverty, there also seems to be great opportunities developing for many people here. It's difficult to believe that the hurt and anger caused by the loss of so many loved ones isn't still hovering over the country, though. The vast majority of people "appear" to have moved on. They seem to have great faith in their current government and try to focus on the future of Rwanda instead of dwelling on its past. It's kind of mind boggling, but I guess it's the only way to move forward. Anything else would be disastrous.

I feel like I'm in the middle of one of history's greatest examples of human resiliency. But there is an overwhelming sense of paradox here... between rich and poor, urban and rural, the past and the future, nightmares and dreams, and between reverence and forgiveness. It is impossible to forget what happened here 16 years ago...but the current government's forceful message of inclusion and unity seems to be working. However, I think that under the surface, people are scarred beyond our imagination. The trauma caused by seeing those you love tortured, raped and slaughtered doesn't go away. Many people here, mostly women and children, were themselves tortured, mutilated and raped (and purposely infected with HIV)...so there are survivors of a different kind too. How can you live next to someone who has betrayed you in the worst ways possible? Although there are some mediation and counseling services, there isn't nearly enough help for all the survivors in this country. There is a feeling of sadness in the air, but people here are are also very friendly, welcoming and optimistic.

During the beginning of the genocide, many Tutsis and moderate Hutus thought they could find protection inside churches, but that was not the case. Having groups of people congregate in one place, even a church, just made it easier for the Hutu Power regime to kill more people at once. Also, many priests betrayed those in hiding by becoming informants to the rebels. I documented my visit to the memorial site in Ntarama, 30km south of Kigali, because I want to teach my future students about the Rwandan genocide. Some of the pictures are graphic and I apologize if they bother you...but I think they're important to share. The entire world turned a blind eye in 1994 and I don't think we should have the privilege to turn our eyes away now. Over 2000 people, including many children and women, were massacred on the grounds of this Catholic church during the second week of the genocide. The stain on the wall in what was the Sunday school room is the blood of children who were violently thrown against it. The clothes hanging from the beams belong to the victims. There are many personal items displayed, such as watches and jewelry. Everywhere you turn, there are constant reminders of the horror which took place here.

What was the Sunday school room

Grenades were used to reach those hiding in the church.

 

Kigali Genocide Memorial Center

The Kigali Genocide Memorial Center was just as powerful as Yad Vasheml in Israel, but I think I may have been more affected by this memorial because the genocide happened within my lifetime and because I was very young when I went to Israel. It does a wonderful job of explaining the events that led up to the genocide, how the world ignored those signs, how the Belgian government is largely to blame, and also details the brutality people inflicted on one another. It has an exhibit on other genocidal massacres that have occurred in recent history, in which there seems to be many parallels, such as the use of propaganda, the foreshadowing that was ignored, the "group think" mentality, and how people around the world are affected by what they hear (or do not hear) through media. It's incredibly frightening.

The youngest children who were orphaned by the genocide are now becoming adults and there is a greater need than ever to support and help this group of people to become successful Rwandan citizens. The Akilah Institute for Women is a great example of a new program aimed at helping this population. My tour of their school was inspiring. Young women who were orphaned and often left completely alone in this world are provided a free higher education in English, leadership and hospitality. It's just in its first year and has plans of expanding to serve 800 young women, including room and board. Since education is a top priority for the Rwandan government, it is providing the school with its new location, but Akilah will need to find funding for many more students than it has currently. They are doing wonderful work and I hope the school's growth is successful.

Many of the country's teachers were victims of the genocide and due to this tremendous loss, the country doesn't have a sufficient number of quality teachers. Part of me is thinking about coming back next year to join a teacher training program (Don't worry yet, mom, this is probably just one of my passing ideas). I met an American teacher at a coffee shop before I went up to see the gorillas and she invited me to come tour her school. It is supposedly the school where President Kagame sends his children! It's a very westernized, private, expensive school and nothing like the public schools in Rwanda (which I've yet to experience!), but it kind of reminded me of Monarch.

Silent Reading time in first grade classroom

I made one last stop before I flew out of Kigali at the Rwandan Orphans Project, an orphanage and school that I learned about through my mom. It's located just outside of the city in a nice area, but the center itself is very minimal (to put it nicely). There are about 90 boys, ages 6-18, who live and go to school on the premises. These are children and teens who have been living on the streets, so there's no doubt there are many challenges. It's very crowded. The classrooms are bare and the resources scarce. Most of the students are very behind in school because they haven't attended in some time.  There is very little funding. Teachers who are tasked with teaching English don't know it themselves. I can't even imagine all the other challenges that go along with running this type of program...but I think it has great potential, especially under the leadership of Sean Jones (he's a real dynamo!). I believe in what they are doing and I want to come back to help. We will see!

One of the dorm rooms (two kids per bed)

Lunchtime: ugali & beans

one of five classrooms (they all look the same)

the kitchen (I'm not kidding)

The Rwandan Orphans Project team

I'm very curious to see what the future holds for Rwanda. It appears to be doing very well, but appearances can be deceitful. As much as I believe in President Kagame's strong leadership, it also scares me a little. I hope the U.S. changes its support from pro-Kagame to pro-Rwanda...just in case.

Thunderstorm rolling into Kigali